How To Window Decor Steampunk Style!

Hello out there!  I hope you are all well, happy and occasionally working on your projects! 

I've had a couple of long awaited days off from work, and have spent them relaxing and catching up on the Manor. We spent the Memorial Day weekend in Sequim, Washington (pronounced Squim), after first visiting my Mother on Saturday, so we've been doing a bit of traveling.  We had some good eats and some incredibly relaxing family time,   We've had beautiful weather, and all is well with the world.  I am sure you wanted to know all that!

Today I wanted to share with you how I went about creating the new facade decorations below the kitchen and grand parlor windows!  This bit of work was a lot of fun, and I can see that the techniques used are applicable to many different projects, so I thought I would share them with you tutorial style!

Carving the Wood Base


You will need straight, close grained wood to carve from.  I used Balsa Wood (it's soft and cuts like butter!) that was 3/8 inch wide.  My local craft store didn't carry 3/8 inch balsa or basswood, so I glued together two 3/16" pieces to create the 3/8 inch width I wanted.

The red and black "clamps" are Closet Spacers I bought from an Estate Sale!  They worked beautifully for this application. 

The curves for the window base were drawn using a French Curve so that I could easily create a "flowing" curve that was pleasing.  After establishing the curve on one side, I used tracing paper folded over in the center to trace the other side, so that both curves were very similar, if not the same.

  

For my project, I had to carve four nearly identical profiles on the front, so that the finished pieces look the same.  To facilitate that, I established lines to use as a gauge to help me ensure that I was carving the same basic thicknesses and shapes at each measuring point.  I transferred each line I established on the first piece to each of the other pieces using a ruler and extending it across to the new piece.  I then used a pencil and a measuring caliper to establish points in a curve that were identical at each line on each piece.

Before carving out the unwanted material with a gouge, I used a chisel to create a Stop Line wherever I did not want the wood to split out.  For this piece, I created a stop line at the top and the bottom, to protect the "sill" and the "foundation piece".  You can see the piece carved to the stop line at the top of the photo below, and the stop line(s) at the bottom of the photo as well.  These aid in getting a straight cut across the piece.

Then using the gouge, I removed the unwanted wood down to the lines I had drawn on both ends of each piece.  Finally, using the chisel once more, I smoothed the basic carving surfaces and sanded out the gouge and chisel marks, to create a smooth finish.

I was placing a medallion in the center of the carved pieces, so I needed to create a flatter area in the center of the carved piece.  Again, the stop cut comes into play.  I used a stop cut to trace the shape of the medallion I was going to use, and then carved out the center to create a flat area to hold the medallion.

I used the same stain as I have used on the doors and windows already completed (Gunstock by Minwax) to stain the well sanded piece, and the carving step was completed.

Adding Steampunk Details

Now it was time to add the details that help to establish this window base as Steampunk.  To do this, I chose to use polymer clay to create brick colored tile for the window.

I cut a template from card, and then traced around the template with my knife to ensure that my shapes were the same.  I also traced around the medallion to establish the shape into which it would fit, and cut that out of each piece.

I used a knife to create the effect of tiles by cutting through the clay on diagonal lines. 

I used four colors of acrylic paint to create the textural depth of the brick.  The base was Brick Red, the next coat was a powder blue, the third a coat of Burnt Sienna, and the fourth a coat of "Burnt Sugar" (a golden brown color).  All coats except the first were applied and then  wiped off, leaving only traces of each color to create depth.  I then added more brick red to a gloss varnish to deepen the colors just a bit more.  The entire surface was then coated with a clear glossy varnish.

The last step was to add the "black stone" details, which I did again with polymer, this time painted black and coated with a matte finish.  

You'll probably note that all through the tutorial, I have had the base "upside down"....actually this was a "fortuitous" discovery.  When I had completed the piece, I turned it over to do something to it, and realized I liked it MUCH better "upside down"... so the "upside" is the "bottom-side" in the picture above...or what is now TOPSIDE.   :0)  I thought it looked even more steamy this way...and I think you will agree, it looks rather sporty on the facade of the Steampunk Manor. 

That's all for tonight folks!  I hope you enjoyed the "tutorial" such as it is, and that someone will find portions of it useful for their own projects.   I again have to apologize for the quality of some of these photos.  I have much to learn, it appears, about more than just minis...!

Until next time!

Doug S

Building the Steampunk Kitchen Door

Hi folks!

Since my last post, I've been busy working on the Steam Punk Kitchen Doors.  My first version, I actually liked fairly well, but not for this build.  It didn't fit, as is, with the feeling I wanted this house to have.  So I went back and started from scratch again.  I've set aside the original door for a later project that has a little more of a cottage feel.

Why didn't I see the mullion not aligned BEFORE the photo!  It's fixed now!  :0) 

This project was a quite complex project from the perspective of there being many steps, and took me quite a long time to figure out.  I am reasonably pleased with the final results though, so it is was well worth any effort put in. 

I've brought forward my concept drawing for first timers.  In the last post I explained how I needed to make some simple changes due to the narrow door size I left, resulting in a basic change in the shape of the windows. However, the basic concept was still what I wanted for the kitchen doors. I have continued to modify the concept slightly here and there as I went through the process and fleshed out the design.  These doors are the final result.

I thought it might be of interest to folks to know how these doors were built, so I am going to attempt to put this post together as a tutorial.  My camera (definitely the camera, it could NOT be me!) still won't take decent pictures for some shots.  I think I am going to have to replace it.  :0(

Meanwhile, here we go on a very long post, I imagine.  Hold on to your hats!

Step 1:  Transfer The Pattern

Cut the door shape out of 3/32 " basswood or other somewhat soft, small grained wood.   I first made a single template and drew the window shapes onto mount board, and then cut them out so that each drawing would be identical.   I cut the basic rectangle(s) out of basswood prior to drawing on the door shape (in this case the window holes), and kept at it until I had four equally sized pieces.  

I then drew, using the template, the base pattern on each door blank, in my case four, since I was making two doors.  If you are making only one door, you will need to cut and prepare only two door blanks.  You will need two door blanks for each door you wish to make.

Make sure that as you do this, you are keeping the template exactly on center, and that you keep the pencil lead close to the leading edge of the window recesses in each case, otherwise, your pattern will be in a different place on each door blank and you will get to do a lot of sanding, and perhaps even have to cut additional door blanks.  The most important aspect of this step is to measure equally spaced sets of window holes on each of the door blanks, so that they can later be glued together. 

Step 2:  Prepare the Window Panes 

Cut out the window shapes using a scroll saw.  Begin this process by drilling holes into the center of each window space as seen above.  This allows you to put the scroll saw blade through the hole and allows you to keep the base door shape all one piece.  

Once you have cut out the windows, use heavy grit sandpaper to align the edges as perfectly as you are able to.  Sand the edges of the window recesses first, ensuring that the center door post is sanded smooth, then progressing outward continue sanding and aligning the edges until all window and door edges (including outer door edges) are sanded smoothly into identical shapes. 

Finish sanding can wait until the next step.  For now, you are just ensuring you can eventually glue together two of the door bases and have them fit well.

Before moving to the next step, insert the door into it's door frame, and mark the location of each vertical edge against the jamb.  This is the available work space to add door detail and decoration. 

Step 3:   Carve the Door Kickplate

Now you are ready to cut and carve the door kick plate.  Begin with a wood blank.  I used balsa wood on this second set of doors, in the first, I used basswood.  Balsa is much easier to carve and allows for very smooth shaping fairly easily, but is so soft that I do wonder how well it will hold up.  Luckily, no big people will be kicking at the door plate!

Start by cutting the wood to be carved to size.  Remember to stay inside the lines you drew, as these are the edges of the door frame, and you will not be able to close the door properly if you stray over the lines.

Measure in and carve guidelines for the basic outer edge shapes of the kick plate.  Here, I used a compass to create a gentle curve from one corner to the next.

Draw in and carve the door folds.  Using balsa wood, I found that simply drawing my mechanical pencil carefully through the wood several times along my measured line provided me with perfectly shaped door folds.  If using harder woods, you will need to use a chisel to create the folds.

Begin to shape the wood into the profile you want it to become.  This process looks like you are destroying everything, but is somewhat necessary to shape the basic contour of your profile.

I used a curved gouge, a straight chisel, and a curved chisel to achieve the shapes I created.  I used the gouge first, to penetrate the wood, and shape it into a very general approximation of the shape I needed. Note that I left a raised center with a very, very slightly lowered basic profile above.  I then used the curved gouge to shape the upper ridge and to cut into the edges along the door folds, and to smooth out the gouged wood in the center of the door plate.   I then used the straight chisel to clean out the edges along both the door folds and the upper ridge.

The next step is to sand.  Using heavy grit paper, sand carefully the entire piece.  You are looking for crisp edges and smoother surfaces.  After you've achieved the general shape you desire, move to medium grit sandpaper, smoothing further the shapes and using the edges of the sandpaper to achieve straight 90 degree angles along the door folds and the upper ridge.

Continue sanding with fine grit sandpaper until you have a smoothly contoured surface.  You should end up with something resembling the above left wood piece.

Use the newly carved blank to create a second blank.  Again, remember to keep your pencil as close as possible to each edge so that you do not end up with two blanks of different sizes.  However, using the first as a template helps guarantee you get exactly the same shape with both blanks.  If you do get one blank larger than the other, sand to ensure that each blank is exactly the same shape and size.  A little bit of variation has a lot of impact in the final picture on miniatures, so measure and compare carefully.

You can use the same technique to ensure that the folds along the bottom of the blanks are the same.  I used a long ruler to align the folds on the two pieces, thus ensuring that the two door blanks have as little variation as possible.

Shape the second blank in exactly the same way as the first.  Sanding is the critical step to ensure that the shapes are identical.  Compare often, and adjust both carvings as needed to obtain identical shapes.


Step 4:  Cut the mullions


This is the hardest step to get consistency, but with patience it can be managed.  Cut mullions using a mount board template for all four mullions (for each door, a total of 8 for two).  Unfortunately I do not have a photo of this part of the process.  I tried, but forgot to photograph this step!

To create the template, draw the desired shape for the mullion on a piece of scrap board.  I wanted the serpentine shape so common with Art Noveau, so drew a mullion shape that incorporated that feel.

It is very important to cut and then actually temporarily install the mount board mullion piece into its final home in the window.  It is easy to get it too short.  Do NOT use the mullion you drew in your original pattern, as it WILL be too short.  Its length does not account for the cutting width of the saw blade.

Once you've measured the template and know it fits, use the template to draw 4 mullions (one for both sides and for both back windows) per door. Cut as closely to the drawn lines with the scroll saw as possible, attempting to ensure that the shape of each cut is similar.  I couldn't figure out a jig for that, but if you could, that would be a good idea.  I have a ways to go to learn how to think that way!

Sand your mullions to finesse the shape, again, you are looking for identical shape as much as possible.


Step 5:  Sand and Stain the door pieces. 

Sand all of the pieces well.  I used heavy grit sandpaper first, mid grain sandpaper, then fine sandpaper, and then followed each sanding with 0000 steel wool.  This provides a very smooth surface to stain. 

I used Traditional Cherry wood stain which gave a deeper tone than my original door, which I like much better for my application.  Note that no gluing  has taken place as yet.  This is because it keeps the surfaces clean and clear for the stain, and does not provide opportunity to get glue in places you don't want it.  Once glue is introduced on the surface of the wood, stains are likely to highlight those areas since they coat the wood and do not allow for consistent absorption. 

Step 6: Creating the Ornate Details

I used the process I have used several times before to create details for the Steampunk doors.  I found a small frame at Michael's Craft Store that I felt like had the right vibe.   I've sort of arranged the "Amazing Mold Putty" molds I made near the areas of the frame I used to make the molds.  The center medallion from the bottom of the frame, the additional detail at the bottom of the door from both bottom sides of the frame, and the detail at the top of the door from the top of the frame.   These frames are very inexpensive, mine was about 3 dollars.

Use this process, or another process, to create details that you would like to use on the doors.  One method I thought of that I knew would work was embossing paper.  This was my first thought, but I could not find an embossing pattern that I liked for my Steampunk doors.  I am sure they are out there, they just weren't where I was!

Sorry for the picture quality~  Ouch~!

After casting the resin molds, trim out the details that you want to use.  All of my pieces started out like the large cast piece above.  (Sorry for the horrid pic, I haven't figured out why some of these come out this way when most pictures are fine! I took about 15 pictures of these and THIS was the best!)

I cut portions of the patterns out that fit the portions of the door that I wanted to decorate to get my final look.  Use your imagination!

Once your pieces are trimmed, paint them flat black, and then apply Polyurethane Satin Finish.  I like the Minwax Water Based poly, since it is a breeze to clean up.


Step 7:  Adding the Decorative Metal Bars


Now for the fun part!  We get to begin assembling the door.  Finally!

More horrible pictures~ !  

To create the decorative metal bars, I used 16 gauge wire.  All you will need is a pair of wire cutters and a wire forming tool.

I will share with you that using the green wire was not my original plan, but it was a happy accident.  I love it. I had originally thought I would use copper wire, but the craft store I went to was out of just about everything! So I found green wire and gold wire, and nothing else.  The green was the lesser of two evils, so I bought it.  Now that it is in the door, I am SO glad that happened!

To make the decorative door rods, I cut three pieces of wire for each window, and shaped them into matching gentle curves for both sides.   They ranged from about 2.5 inches to about 4 inches in length.

I used a mini awl to create small pilot holes along the vertical edges and bottom curves of the windows on one of the two door pieces that make up each door.  I chose to place the metal bars on the outside window surface, they could be placed  on either side.  This was a delicate process, but doable.  I placed holes at the (reasonably) correct angle for each bar at the bottom of the window and the outside edges.

To insert the metal wire into the door frame, I chipped tiny channels into the wood to hold the wire between the door pieces.  I chipped them out with a utility knife, just enough to allow the wire to sit inside the sides of the window.  I placed the wire into the channels and glued it in.



Step 8:  Assembling the Door

I applied the two door sides together like a "wire sandwich" with the wire laying against the acetate I used for the window, and the 2nd door piece in back of that.  I glued and clamped the door at that stage, to ensure a good solid meld.  

After the glue dried, I applied the kickplate to the door in its proper position.

I applied the "metal work" next, which helped me to decide exactly where to place the door mullions to look best.  They are slightly lower than the original pattern, but are where I think they look best. 

Step 9:  Gaze lovingly at the final result. 


This door was a real challenge to design and build for me, but I am quite pleased with the overall effect of the doors.

Hot off the press!  Glue is still drying!

I ignored all I learned about the direction of the door swing.  I played with both inside swing and outside swing, but for these doors, they just did not look proper swinging inward.  So I took advantage of the occasional example of exterior doors swinging outward, and the little ones will just  have to cope!

I am excited about continuing the process of finalizing design and building doors and windows for the first floor, because they add so much life to the interiors.  I plan to tie in the windows along the front of the house with these doors more by adding ornate detail there as well, and the Grand Parlor at the other end of the ground floor will get windows that echo these doors.   I will not be finalizing installation of any of these windows and doors until after having completed the interior ceilings, and the exterior of the ground floor.

Did I ever tell you this is fun?  :0)

Hope the tutorial was informative!

Doug S

SITUATION WANTED: Working Butler; Quiet Family

Hi there folks!

As promised, I am here to drag you through the creation of my latest addition to the Steam-punk kitchens!  I had a lot of fun with this little project.   It was a fairly simple project, one that I think just about anyone could build with a little patience.    

A Little Aside

First, the obligatory photo of the Butler's Pantry as it stands now.  The Iron Sink now has six new legs (Newel Posts turned upside down!), and a new matte finish. Almost done now.  Just needs a faucet set and it will be complete.  The faucet set will likely sneak in unnoticed sometime in the near future!

A Little Bit O' History

Before I get into the making of the miniature plate rack, I would like to share just a bit of history I find interesting about the Butler's Pantry.  We have a modern day view of the Butler's role, and of the Bulter's Pantry as a sort of staging area for the dining room.  But the history of the Butler's Pantry is a continual merging and separating of the roles of various rooms and domestic service jobs that was shaped by social and economic history.

The Butler, by the Victorian Age, was both a butler and chief server.  The Butler's Pantry functioned in many capacities, combining the functions of many of it's predecessors, primary among them the Butt'ry, the early storeroom for casks and bottles of wine, and the Sewery, or Servery, which was historically used as the primary staging area for serving the dining rooms, and was the repository for fine plate, silverware and valuable service-ware.

Courtesy of The Queen's Scullery (SJ Alexander et al.) / CC BY-NC-ND 3.0

In the grander homes, the butler may have actually slept in the Butler's Pantry, as a deterrent to servants "of base character" stealing the valuable dinnerware of the grand home.   The Butler's Pantry of the Victorian age functioned then as an office of sorts, from which the Butler ran his household, managing the log books for wines, servicing the fine plate and the fine personages of the house. From this room, he staged fine dinner parties and managed, in wealthier homes, a large staff of servants.  

Photo Courtesy of "Cooking with Glitter" Under Creative Commons License

Serving as a butler in a fine home was a profession, by the 19th century, that became a science.  Butler's were coached and trained by their more mature predecessors, books were written about how to best serve, clean, and manage the furnishings and important tasks of the butler's service.  In one book written to transfer the important skills of the butler and footmen of the Grand Manors during the early 1800's, this writer admonishes his readers . . .

"Some however, have much injured the plate intrusted to them, 

by making experiments of different kinds upon it." 

'The Footman's Directory and 
Butler's Remembrancer', J. Hatcher and Son, London 1823

The writer goes on to provide detailed instructions as to how to best to wash, clean, and refurbish the plate. That quote made me wonder what kind of experiments would "much injure" the plate?!  Were they using acid?  :0)

If you find the tidbits above interesting, take the time some time to read up on these domestic servants, and the history of these erstwhile important rooms of the Victorian era.  It is fascinating, and in the case of the butt'ry, it's history boasts roots from ancient Egypt!


How Did He Do It?

I know you have been waiting with bated breath to find out how this plate rack, which will help our Steam-punk Butler discharge his duty admirably, was built.   Some of you may be ready to expire by now.  Well, wait no longer.  We've finally arrived!

Step 1:   

Cut and drill holes through the shelves.  Mine were about 5 inches long, 1 inch deep, and 1/8 inch width.  I used a 1/16 inch drill bit to drive the holes, and drilled all four shelves at once, so that the holes would align top to bottom.

Step 2:   

Cut the back to fill the desired space.  I used 3/32" mahogany lumber at 5 inches by 5 inches.

Step 3:

Stain or finish the shelves and the back to taste.  I used a Minwax Stain Pen called Golden Oak.

Step 4:

Attach the bottom shelf with Glue.  I used Arlene's Tacky Glue.  Use a toothpick to remove any excess glue.

Step 5:

Cut dowels that will intersect the holes through all four shelves.  My shelves were approximately 1 inch apart, so I cut my "dowels" at about 4 3/8ths inches, to account for the width of the shelves.  I used fake "blood grass" from Hobby Lobby for the dowels.  The natural appearing "wood" of the stem was 1/16 inch in circumfrence, and was reinforced with a strong metal rod inside.  It was perfect for the job.  I used tin snips to cut the metal rod after measuring.

Step 6:

Test for a good square fit.  If the fit of the shelves is not perpendicular to the rods to create a neat square, recut and redrill the shelves.  This is an important step, as if you miscalculate, your dowels will not look straight once assembled.

Step 7:

Once satisfied with the fit, glue the shelves into their intended location. Cut and stain supports if desired.  I cut my back supporting pieces out of 3/32" lumber, 3/4 inches deep, and mitered the corners.  Alternatives to this treatment would be to place 1/16" square pieces of lumber under the shelves.  They will need some sort of support, unless you know something about glues that I don't!

Step 8:

Glue in the dowels.  I used Arlene's Tacky Glue and a toothpick to fill each hole and then put the dowel through all four shelves.  As you can see, my method was a bit messy.  I am sure someone knows of a better method!  I used the toothpick to clean up the puddles of glue at each hole.  It cleans up nicely with a toothpick, and as long as you have already stained the wood, is not apparent once the glue dries.

Step 9:

Stop and allow the glue to dry thoroughly.  Failure to do so will cause the piece to go out of square.

Step 10:

Cut 3 additional pieces to finish off the top, bottom and backsplash of the shelf. Mine were 3/32 inch mahogany, approximately 5 inches by 1 inch. Sand and clean these well, as they are your finish layer.

Step 11:

Glue on the finish layer.  Here I am applying the finish layer for the shelf backsplash which I painted to match the wall behind the shelves.  Be sure to clamp or hold each finish piece until reasonably dry.  These thin pieces of wood will easily warp unless clamped.

Step 12:

Add molding in the front of each shelf, butting against the front of the dowels(not pictured).  Set the top piece back to be placed above the molding on the lower shelves.   I used 1/16 inch by 1/16 inch lumber I purchased at Hobby Lobby for this.  I also stained these molding pieces with the Minwax Golden Oak pen.

Step 13:

Prepare brackets, if you choose to use them.  I cast mine out of resin, using molds I made from Amazing Mold Putty.  Some of you will remember the clock my daughter had that I have used previously.  I used that same clock to cast these pieces.

Step 14:

Glue the brackets onto the shelves and hang them.  You are done!

Once I completed the above steps, I glued everything in, Wall, Sink and Plate Rack.  Time now to move on to the next project!

Until Next Time!

Doug S

P.S. Disclaimer:  I have not attempted to faithfully record exact dimensions.  I would expect that each situation would be different, and would require remeasuring.